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WL Toys v911 Settings for er9x

Here’s my v911 EEPE file that you can upload to your transmitter running the er9x firmware. It’s a good aid so you can learn and program your own. For instance, I tied the “dual rate” to the knobs. To allow for fine tuning of your rates.

Therefore, for full 100% rate, make sure your AUX.1 knob and AUX.2 knob is turn to the max 100% position.

AUX.1 knob controls the rates for rudder

AUX.2 knob controls the rates for elevator and aileron cyclic

The F.MODE switch at ID0 has a linear throttle curve. In the other modes, ID1 or ID2, it has a more aggressive throttle curve and a more sensitive expo settings: -20 for elevator and aileron.

Download the EEPE file by clicking on the button below. Obviously, this will only work with your Turnigy 9x, FlySky TH9x radio that has already been flashed to the er9x firmware. Use the EEPE program to write this v911 model template to your transmitter.

Categories: Downloads, v911
33 Comments on WL Toys v911 Settings for er9x

Brushless mCPX Tail from 120SR Mount

A bad mCPX brushed tail motor prevented the test flight of a brushless mCPX. So I had to get creative with the stuff I had on hand. No store to run to at 12AM. Here’s the result. A Hobby King AP-03 brushless motor and a Blade 120SR tail boom.

Worked really well too with a XP 3A ESC flashed with BLHeli tail code.

Mated a Hobby King AP-03 Brushless Motor to a 120SR tail boom and motor mount.

7/9/2012 Update:

I saw that there are some people who do view my post…and so perhaps some more thoughts on using the HobbyKing AP-03 motor is needed.

It works good…but obviously you gotta mod a mount for it.

I like that it’s relatively cheap from Hobby King ($15). The negative thing is, the shaft size is 1.5mm. Which means you gotta bore out that size on the prop you wanna use. I like the RRC 65mm Tail rotor blade because it has a larger center hub so you can enlarge the default 1mm hole to fit the 1.5mm shaft. Also, with the AP-03 as it comes from HobbyKing, you have to reverse the shaft. It’s easy to do with a drill press and a small socket. I’ll try and do a post on it if there’s demand. I also recommend you get a 1.5mm to 1mm replacement shaft and replace the shaft that comes on the AP-03 motor. That way, you don’t need to bore out holds on the tail prop. Fabricating a tail mount may be too much work, so if you don’t have the motor laying around to use…I’d just grab a Oversky HP03T motor and be done with it. :D

1/16/2013 Update:

I have flown the mCPX with this tail more, as well as crashed it more. And everything is still great. Had to replace one broken Plantronics tail rotor. Other than that, solid so far. I replaced the 1.5mm shaft with a 1mm shaft from Astroid-Designs so now changing props is not a hassle.

Categories: Brushless, Helicopter, mCPX
1 Comment on Brushless mCPX Tail from 120SR Mount

Repair non-connecting v911 5-in-1 RX

Every now and then, I see a flurry of post about v911 RX that refuses to reconnect or rebind to the transmitter. Often times, this occurs following a crash. The symptom is upon plugging in the battery, the RX LED immediately turns solid without blinking, or sometimes, it does a series of rapid blink and then turns solid much quicker than normal.

A number of us learn that the cylindrical crystal that is responsible for the timing of the circuit has gone bad. Replacing it usually fixes the issue. I’ve had this happen on three RX already, and solding on a new one have fixed the issue all three times. So it’s worth a shot instead of throwing the RX away.

For the repair, you need a working 16mhz crystal. You can purchase some on eBay or DigiKey. Or grab one from a non repairable, broken RX board.

The ones I got from Ebay is actually smaller than the original. Whether it’s more dedicate and prone to getting damage as a result, I can’t say yet. Time will tell.

Here’s the two side by side. The original on the left and the Ebay version on the right.

Comparision of the stock v911 16MHz crystal versus the replacement one.

It was easy for me to solder on the new crystal from EBay. And it works like a charm. Here it is soldered to the same location on the v911 RX. It doesn’t dangle past the RX edge like the original one. Just need to glue it down to secure it in place.

Replacement 16MHz cylindrical crystal soldered in the proper location on the v911 RX.

I purchased 50 of them, so let me know if you need one in a pinch.

Categories: Helicopter, Repair, v911
17 Comments on Repair non-connecting v911 5-in-1 RX

Carrying Case for Micro Helicopters

I took this photo to share on RCGroups. I figured I’ll post here as well.

RCGroups forum member Heli Pad gifted me this Harbor Freight Tools case and I configured it to hold 5 micro heli.

From top to bottom:

  1. Blade mCP X with extended tail boom
  2. WL Toys v911 (HobbyKing FP100)
  3. Blade mSR
  4. modded 9958MSR
  5. Xieda 9958 (HobbyKing HK-190)

Perfectly fits five micro helicopter and full size transmitter.

All those brands and model of helicopter are flown with the Turnigy 9x modded for DSM2 capabilities.

Behind the foam on top are pockets for the tools and extra parts. You can see how those pockets looks like over at Harbor Freight’s site.

I pulled out a block of foam, keeping them intact. Then cut a 1/4 off the bottom and reinserted back into place. It makes a nice little recessed compartment for my 1s LiPo battery.

1S LiPo compartment recessed.

Can anyone guess what this little momentary switch is for?

Little pressure switch hot glued into place.

If you guess that the switch is connected to the LED light strip at the top, you’d be correct. It gets toggled when the case is close, turning off the LED. We usually fly at the local park after my kids are put down for bed, so the light strip is great. I rigged up a 3S LiPo to power the LED light strip. The strip of LED was like $5 bucks at Hobby King, and has adhesive on one side. You cut it to the length you need. Then I used a 3S 2200mAh LiPo to power the LED because that’s what I had handy. You can probably go with something less. However, I intend on putting in a charger that will pull power from the same LiPo in the future. So that 2200mAh LiPo should work out pretty well.

Strip of white LED lights hooked up to a 3S 2000mAh LiPo.

Here’s the configuration…

And a charger powered off the same 3S LiPo pack that powers the LED

12 Comments on Carrying Case for Micro Helicopters

BLHeli Flashing Setup

There were some confusion on what’s the minimum things to plug in to properly flash BLHeli onto the the ESC. I know I had the same questions when I started out and when you run into a problem, there are too many variables to contend with.

An overhead view of how I have mine set up. You don’t need anything more than this to properly flash the ESC.

The minimum setup to allow BLHeli flashing.

And for completeness, here is the order of how I hook things up.

  1. First, I connect the ESC to the USB Toolstick.
  2. Next, I connect the USB Toolstick to the computer.
  3. Finally I connect the battery to the ESC to power it up.

I then open up the BLHeliSuite program that user 4712 from HeliFreak wrote.

I click on the “Flash BlHeli Hex File” button. Then select the proper firmware I want to flash over and hit the “OK” button to flash the new firmware onto the ESC. (You’ll get prompted with a couple of dialog boxes warning that you’re about to overwrite the original firmware on the ESC. I just answer ok to dismiss them and continue on.)

Let me know if that helps you or if I need to clarify any steps.

Categories: Brushless
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