Blade Nano CP X Square Tail Boom Mod

If you’ve flown Blade helis, you would know that they often use 2mm round CF tubes for their tail boom. To keep the tail rotor aligned to the main shaft, each end of the boom is keyed. In the shape of a D.

The tail boom is one I often fracture or break. Horizon Hobby does not sell replacement CF booms by itself. One has to buy the entire tail assembly for about $15. Many of us hobbyist simply purchase 1 meter CF tubes or rod, and cut to length. This is much more economical and keeps more money in our pocket.

Since learning to fly 3D with the Nano CP X, I have fractured more booms than I care to share. And I am sick of needing to carefully file the D shape, making sure not to remove too much material from each side. On top of that, one have to ensure that the flat part is on the same plane on each end of the fabricated tail boom to ensure the tail rotor lines up with the main shaft. It was a nightly ritual that I am done with.

I know some people have solve the issue of broken tail boom by using a 2mm round solid rod. Then they wrap the tail wires on the outside. I personally don’t like the wires wrapped on the outside. During crashes, the enamel coating can be rubbed off and the resulting short will burn out your tail FET. Using solutions like CAT5 wiring just seems to be heavy and clunky on the Nano.

Personally, I wished the Nano CP X uses the 2mm square boom that the v911 uses. It has more meat to it and there is no need to make the key at each ends of the boom to keep the boom from getting out of plum with the main shaft. Plus, it’s easy to purchase replacement boom for the v911 heli on the cheap that is already in a good length. In fact, when the v911 first came out, I purchase a bunch at $0.50 each but have not fractured the tail boom of the v911 yet. It’s the only heli I own that I can say that about.

Noticing that the Turnigy FBL100 and HiSky FBL100 heli both uses 2mm square boom, I purchased a spare FBL100 frame. Cut the rear portion and epoxied it onto the Nano CP X frame. It was actually very easy to do and line up since the flat surface mates to each other securely with epoxy.

Here’s some photo of the result. I am so happy I can simply put in a new tail boom or fabricate one by cutting to length.







16 responses to “Blade Nano CP X Square Tail Boom Mod”

  1. marinr Avatar

    So should you break this tail boom you’ll need to buy a new frame, right?

    1. hacksmod Avatar

      No. You just buy a new tail boom for $1.

  2. Byron Trantham Avatar
    Byron Trantham

    Would you send me an email telling me how the wires are fed throught the square tube? I looked that the Horizon replacement and the wiring looks captured. Thanks

    1. hacksmod Avatar

      Ah, I see the source of your confusion now Byron. You would have to solder on the connector after you feed it through the boom.

      Soldering. Some are scared of it. I enjoy it. In fact, I solder the tail wires directly to the board. Don’t use the plugs. Point of failure and actually an inconvenience for me when it come time to replace the tail boom.

      Hope that makes sense now. Sorry it wasn’t the answer you’re hoping for. :)

      1. Byron Trantham Avatar
        Byron Trantham

        Nope that’s exactly what I figured. I know how to solder so that’s not a problem. Now i will try to figure out what you “cut” to install (epoxie) the square tube receptacle. I got my Nano for Christmas and I have already cracked (it is repairable) the boom so this mod is going to save me a ton of cash!

      2. Automaticjack Avatar

        This is so smart. I’m soooooo sick of replacing tail booms and motors. The Nano is my simulator and my flying is improving and so is my crashing. Would you ever consider showing us how to actually fed the wires and do the mount and soldering? Thank you so much.

        1. hacksmod Avatar

          The wiring and solder is the same as the stock Nano boom. So I didn’t think detailing that was necessary. :)

          You just unsolder the connector. Feed the wires through. Then solder the connectors back on.

          Or do what I do, I solder the tail wires directly to the RX. It’s a more solid connection for me and actually quicker than having to solder on the connector each time. I do this even when I was running the stock Nano boom. My Metcal solder station gets hot in 2seconds. So it’s already ready.

  3. Byron Trantham Avatar
    Byron Trantham

    OK Hacksmod, Hobby King finally got 2mm square stock. I ordered 2 bags of 2 – four booms! I also ordered the frame mod for the tube mount. While waiting for the new parts it dawned on me that I don’t know how to remove the tail motor and cage from the original boom. Is it an interference fit (pull hard! :-)) or is it glued?

    BTW I ordered all four canopies from HeliPal. They arrived 12-28-12 and I wasn’t home! :-( I have been trying to get in touch with them with no luck what so ever. I sure hope they contact me soon. I sure appreciate your help – I think a lot of us do.

    1. hacksmod Avatar

      Sweet. Thanks for your kind words. It’s hobbyist like you that makes it fun to share ideas and experiences with.

      I got some FBL100 booms in from HobbyKing. They are a bit more sturdy than the v911 tail boom. I noticed the inner hole is a smaller diameter. That means that there’s more material in the FBL100 version versus the v911 version. Makes sense because the FBL100 is a CP heli.

      The FBL100 is very slightly shorter. But it should do nicely.

      I updated my blog post about the Walkera canopy. I noticed some cracks forming at the bottom, near the battery cage. I think they way I made the holes and mounted the canopy, it stretches the bottom too tightly against the Nano battery cage, and causes impact racks against it’s ridges. Other than that, it’s holding up well else where.

      I trimmed it up and I think it’s slightly less weight than the Nano CP X canopy. But only slightly so. Surprise you’re having trouble getting your canopy. I assume it’s from the post office that you need to contact?

      1. Byron Trantham Avatar
        Byron Trantham

        Yea they had the order. The “notice of delivery” “got lost in the mail.” :-) I posted question on the canopy thread. I split my first one useing very hole punch. I stopped there and asked “How”. Looking forward to figuring out how to mount them. The one I cracked is still useable but it bunned me out.

        1. hacksmod Avatar

          I’ll try and do a proper reply later tonight. I am troubleshooting my home electrical wiring. Newer home and somebody messed up somewhere.

  4. j35u5fr34k Avatar

    I love the canopy. I have canopy envy right now. Making my Nano into a “red monster” and saw this.

    1. hacksmod Avatar

      Hahaha. Thanks. This is my beater canopy. Most resilient so far. And the white plastic allow it to glow at night with a white SMD LED mounted on the RX board. Search the site for night blades to see an example of the glow on the v911 Heli.

      1. hacksmod Avatar

        Thank you. Good to know.

  5. Eric Avatar


    I realize that this thread is old and I hope you get this. How are your square tail booms holding up? I just ordered the stuff but it’s on backorder so I’m sure it will be awhile. I guess I’ll have to add another round one for now.

    Thank you!

    1. hacksmod Avatar

      I haven’t flown my NCPX for a while. And while the square held up better than the round. The solid round is the strongest and what I would recommend if you’re still crashing a lot. For some reason, it must be my style of flying because I break more booms than anything else on all my CP helis. The latest being the HCP100s double brushless.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *