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WLtoys v922 (HiSky FBL100/Turnigy FBL100)

Just got delivery of the WLtoys v922. It’s a Blade mCPX style CP heli and it flies well. Giving it a once over, it’s well made and the PCB and servos are better manufacture than the Blade mCPX. Shiny solder joints with just the right amount of solder.

I like that the status LED is right in the middle. On some of the Blade heli, the off centered LED made the glow underneath the canopy off centered.

Here’s the brushless signal tap points for those googling for the info:

The weight:

Front side:

Back side:

Categories: v922
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Hobby King’s New Turnigy 9xr Transmitter

Many of us in the hobby know that Hobby King has a new transmitter they designed inhouse that is due to be released any day now. Looks like we finally got some high res photos of the upcoming Turnigy 9Xr transmitter.

What’s exciting about this new transmitter is that it will utilize open source firmware, or be flash with one. Hinting at er9x compatibility down the line. Has the programmer plug built in and available inside the battery compartment. Has DSM2/DSMx compatibilities. And, to top it all off… they are aiming it at a $50 price point. The people’s radio they bill it as.

Supposedly the POTs are better too. Not sure what that translates to. All based on rumors for the past year. We’ll see once they start shipping and reviews fills up the forums.

Anyways, a post without photos are boring.

This beautifully lit and captured photo makes the radio look very professional indeed.

Here’s a closer look at the center area.

And here’s a look at the rear connectivity and glimpse of the module bay. Hobby King is working with FrSky to release a compatible module that makes use of the popular FrSky protocol.

Here’s the render of the rear module and the connectivity necessary so you can use the built in antenna. Much better thought out than the coaxial cable on the Turnigy 9x.

Categories: New Gear
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FlySky FS-TH9x, Turnigy 9x Stick Calibration How-to

When you first get your TH9x, Turnigy 9x radio, I recommend you calibrate your sticks. It’s a quick procedure that ensure your sticks range of motion is seen correctly by the firmware. Keep in mind, this should work for all the variants of the FlySky FS-TH9x. i.e. Turnigy 9x, Imax-9x, Eurgle and CopterX

If not, here’s the procedure all new Turnigy 9x owners should perform.

Enter calibration mode:

On the left stick, press and hold the trim up.
On the right stick, press and hold the trim to the left.
Keep both trims held while turning on the power.

You will see the following screen if you successfully entered into the calibration mode:

Calibration steps:

1. Begin by centering both sticks. Then press and hold the Menu button down until you hear a confirmation beep.

  • The numbers 0000 on the top will increase to 0001.

2. The right stick gets calibrated first.

  • Move the right stick diagonally to the upper right. Hold it there while long pressing the menu button down until the confirmation beep.
  • The numbers 0001 will now increase to 0002.
  • Now, move the same stick diagonally to the lower left position. Hold it there while long pressing the menu button till the confirmation beep is heard.
  • The numbers 0002 will increase to 0003.
  • Done with the right stick. We will do the left stick in the same manner.

3. The left stick gets calibrated next.

  • Move the left stick diagonally to the upper right corner. Hold it there and then long press the menu button until the confirmation beep is heard.
  • The numbers on the display will increment to 0004.
  • Finally, move the left stick to the lower left corner and long press the menu button. The beep will sound.
  • The numbers  will change to 0005 now.

4. Finally, recenter both sticks. Long press the menu button until the beep is heard. The number will stay at 0005.

5. Exit and save the calibration result by double pressing the exit button. This will save your calibration and return to the regular menu.


That’s all there is to it. You have successfully calibrated your sticks. Hope that helped you guys out.

8 Comments on FlySky FS-TH9x, Turnigy 9x Stick Calibration How-to

Turnigy 9x Manuals

Every now and then I see someone on the forum looking for the Turnigy 9x manual. So I compiled a few and am linking them here for your convenience.

First up is the Imax-9x. Which is the same radio as the Turnigy 9x. The manual is fully applicable and has nice soft colorations. Looks good. Click on the logo to download from Box.net:

The Copter X is also a pretty nicely put together manual. Fully applicable to the Turnigy 9x. Click on the Copter X logo to download from Box.net

The Eurgle is a no frills, black and white manual. Good because the PDF is only 6MB in size. It is available in two parts from Hobby King, but I combined both parts into one file to make it convenient for you guys. Click on it’s logo to download from Box.net.

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Turnigy 9x Transmitter Sticks

Just wanted to share the transmitter sticks that just arrived. At our local flynite, quite a few of us has the Turnigy 9x transmitter. Often times, it takes a double, triple check to make sure I am picking up the one that is mine. With these new sticks, it should help me identify my TX from the others. That is until my buddies read this blog post and decide to get some red ones like these.

These were $2.34 a pair from R2hobbies.com and my entire order only cost a little over $3 bucks to ship from Australia. Not bad considering I bought other things as well.

The 3mm Futaba sticks are the correct size and model for compatibility with the Turnigy 9x and it’s other variants: FlySky FS-TH9x, Eurgle, Imax, etc…

Update (2013-05-30) – Hobby King now carries compatible sticks. The ends looks less “sharp” so it may be more comfortable. Only $1.89 from here.

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Turnigy 9x Antenna Mod

I was asked how I solved the problem with the antenna wire on the Turnigy 9x to allow for the rear module to be removed. The easy way would to buy the original FlySky TH9x module, which comes with the antenna properly mounted on the rear module. However, if you’re handy with a soldering iron and a drill, read how I tackle the problem.

First, I de-solder the coax cable to remove the antenna. Moved it to the back and resolder. Below, you can see how I secure the antenna to allow it to pivot. It holds very securely and has a firmness when rotating. So it feels like it was built that way at the factory. You can use one screw or two. Both works great.

This is how I affixed the antenna. The upper part already has a lip to catch. I inserted the two, small screws at the bottom to secure and allow the rotation.

The spacer I used came from the top of the HP6DSM that donated the DSM2 module. I cut and then sanded down to that line for a nice reveal and final fit and finish. It allows the antenna to be protected by the transmitter handle. Insertion and removal of module is still easy. The complete rear module can now be removed.

How the mod looks from the rear. The entire module is now removable.

Here’s a three photos superimposed on each other to show the range of motion.

Showing the range of motion on the Turnigy 9x antenna mod.

Reference post: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20127812&postcount=14458

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Turnigy 9x Trainer Port Resistor Mod

Update 04/27/2012 – Good news. It looks like there is no more need to cut the trace and solder in the resistor as demonstrated in this post unless you’re still running stock firmware.

The latest ER9X firmware has a an option call “Enable PPMSIM” in the Radio Setup screen. It allows you to turn it ON and the er9x firmware routes the PPM signal to the trainer port through a alternate path. Therefore, it bypasses the module and thus the need to add the resistor.

Original Post below…

Here’s my quick writeup on the trainer port resistor mod.

First, some helpful links to original articles on this. They contain a description of the problem and the solution.

  1. Original PDF on “Fixing the 9x PPM in problem”
  2. A more visual description of the issue and illustrated steps to fix.
  3. An updated version of the above with a video.

I prefer to use version 3.

The reason is because it has since been discovered that the problem only appear to affect the Turnigy 9x module. Others have noted that using an Assan module or FrSky module in the back doesn’t exhibit the issue.

Therefore, instead of modding the transmitter. We are going to apply the fix to only the Turnigy module. This is also simplier because you only have to unscrew two screws instead of the 6 screws + unfasten a wire harness to gain access to the Turnigy rear board.

Please follow the above video for a howto. It’s pretty simple and well done.

  • Use a 1k resistor. (I chose to use SMD)
  • Cut the trace with an xacto knife or file.
  • Solder on the 1k ohm resistor. (surface mounted 102 resistor)

Here’s a photo for your reference:

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Turnigy 9x 3.3v Location

The Turnigy 9x runs internally at 5v. But it also has a 3.3v regulator on the main board that is used to power the LCD. Here are a few of the locations of the 3.3v points that you can use. Make sure whatever unit you’re connecting to that 3.3v regulator doesn’t draw too much current or else you’ll get rebooting of the Turnigy 9x.

Location of the Turnigy 9x 3.3v Rails

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Turnigy 9x – Xieda 9958 Throttle Curve

I recently purchased a Turnigy 9x and am in the process of setting up my preferred throttle curves for it. So I figure I’d share.

From my understanding, being able to set your throttle curve is the benefit of setting up the initial profile as a “heli” instead of “acro”.

To get to the throttle curve section of the menu, hold down the menu button. Select Settings. Then select THR/CV.

Currently, I have two different throttle curves link to my [Aux 3] F.Mode switch.

Owners of the 9x will know that the F.Mode switch can be toggle between three settings: N, 1, 2 correlating to Norm, ID1, ID2 in the menu.

Initially, I have a normal, more linear throttle curve set for the N switch position:

But I found that I like to fly with the ID1 position. It has the following curve set:

I think I will make the ID1 settings my Normal in the future. My ID2 position currently has a rudder to elevator mix that I am experimenting with. Being able to quickly switch between different settings in mid flight allows you to do a A:B comparison and makes it easier to find the combination of settings that fits your flying style.

I’ll post more as I complete setting up and fine tuning the Turnigy 9x with the Xieda 9958.

Side note: You notice that the stock 9x firmware gives you the ability to adjust 5 different points on the curve. Similar to the Spektrum family of TX. This is one example of where the custom firmware like Er9x shines. They allow 9 points on the throttle curve. For those who need absolute control. Obviously overkill for a micro heli like the 9958…but it’s one example of the power the Turnigy 9x posses with a custom firmware flash to it.

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vGood FireFly 32bit ESC

Nowadays, there are a couple of ESC firmware that multirotor guys are flying with. It’s generally either KISS or BLHeli enabled ESC. So it’s nice to see another company producing ESC with the ease, simplicity of KISS with great performance and smoothness…while being very receptive to feedback from the community. You can find their test thread here on RCGroups…and their representative does a great job of relaying wants/bugs/issues back to the engineers.


What I like about the vGood FireFly is that it’s 32bit and drives the motor very smoothly. It’s size is also very small for the number of amps it can handle. On my recent Q-Carbon build, I went with the 10a ESC because they are slightly smaller than the other ESC I had on hand. Including a 12a KISS one. And in these micro builds, every millimeter counts IMHO.vGood_FireFly_10a_front_back LittleBee_KISS_vGood_FireFly

Great weight for the smaller builds where every gram matters.

A mock up of how it looks on the arms. It was much easier to solder the motor wires with the extra room versus say the LittleBee 20a which sits right next to where the motor wires exit.

The vGood FireFly 10a and the FuriousFPV Piko BLX FC makes a perfect combo for the 130mm Q-Carbon frame.

The list of things I like about the vGood 32bit ESC:

  • The fast 48mHz 32bit processor with dedicated gate drivers AND hardware PWM, makes for very smooth running ESC. Similar to my KISS ESC.
  • It’s ability to adapt timing keeps desync issues at bay, including high KV motors. No guessing on what timing to set, helping keep KISS-like simplicity.
  • Active braking is enabled by default. And it has anti-stall protection to prevent the motor from burning up the ESC should it detect that the props are blocked from spinning.
  • I has an easy to use motor reversing feature. If you want your motor to spin the opposite way, you plug in your battery. And before you arm…you simply rotate that motor/prop in the direction you want it to operate. The ESC will beep signifying that it has updated it’s settings. No need to cross wires or plug in a USB flashing stick to do this simple thing.
  • Latest protocol ready and aware. OneShot and MultiShot auto detection.
  • Lastly, awesome price to performance ratio. The price is on the low end of the spectrum…yet top end performance. Nice.


Where to buy

From vGood directly
or as rebrands from

GetFPV (Silk 20a and 30a)

HobbyKing (MultiStar 32bit ESC)


Categories: Uncategorized
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