LATEST MODS

I just wanted to share a drilling jig that Jim Stoll made for us Xieda 9958 modders and hacker. I came across his jig on one of the forum. As a hobbiest, he created a drilling jig so he can make new main shaft for the mCPX helis. I guess going CP means more likeliness to break main shafts. Well, soon enough, he was making jigs for friends and forum members.

So I approached him, hoping he can do something similar for us Xieda 9958. That way, we have something that takes the guesswork out of making carbon fiber main shafts for the 9958. The photos below are the result of that collaboration. It’s really a labor of love for Jim and a way to pay it forward. At least that’s the feeling I get from collaborating with him over the holiday break.

The CNC machined aluminum jig will help help you drill your holes at the appropriate locations while keeping the bit straight and perpendicular. The bottom edge serves as a guide as to where to cut. It really simplifies the whole process for those of you who want to experiment with the various heads on your 9958. Switching from a metal main shaft to a CF one shaves about 0.8g. That’s pretty significant.

The best part is, the jig itself is pretty inexpensive. Go to http://stollstuff.com and email Jim to get one of your own.

Here’s a mod to try if you happen to have some broken 9958 blades you want to resurrect. Use MicroHeli mSR aluminum balls. Drill a hole were the ball broke off and screw on one of the MicroHeli ball to resurrect your 9958 blades.

How many of you are breaking off the link guides like I am prone to doing during hard crashes? I put some 9958 canopy grommets on them and hopefully they reduce the breakage rates. Give it a try and let me know if works out for you.

I use tweezers to open up the o ring so they easily slip over the link guides.

Left: Example of the link guides breaking off on the rotor head. Right: Using tweezers to open up the o ring so it easily go onto the link guides.

Adjust the o ring so they don’t rub against the linkage.

Get the o ring as close to the linkage as possible, but don't allow them to rub.

I am searching for the best performing 1s LiPo for the money. Here’s the discharge curve for some of the cells I had on hand. Keep in mind that the Hyperion is brand new. The NanoTech are relatively new as well as the 9958’s stock cells. Only the Turnigy 160 has been well used. I am pleasantly surprise to find they still perform pretty well. It hard to see but the Hyperion 160mAh being new, and also has great chemistry, stayed flat at 3.8v until about 172s. Good performance and I can see why it’s one of the most popular 1s LiPo for the micro helis. I am waiting to get some new ThunderPower 160 to put to the test against the Hyperion 160.

I intend on updating this post with better data as soon as I get new cells from each of the manufacturers to test.

This test is to check discharge to 3.8v. Usually I fly my heli to about 3.7v or so.

Just a quick post showing my previous Xieda 9958 5-in-1 versus the new one I just received.

Some components are moved around and the LED has been moved to the rear. This will allow you to easily see when your 9958 successfully reconnected with your transmitter upon insertion of a battery. Previously, it was hard to tell since the servo does not move and the LED is out of sight inside the canopy.

Xieda 9958 Old versus New 5-in-1 RX

Let us know if you spot any other changes.

I present to you, a printable template to allow you to create your own custom main shaft for your Xieda 9958. Simply use a PDF viewer to print out the file. Ensure that print scaling is off so the file prints at 100%.

An example screenshot of the PDF template.

Then simply line up, tape your 3mm carbon fiber shaft to the print out and drill. Using a drill press will help ensure straight holes. If you have a hard time finding perfect, 3mm hollow carbon fiber to use, you can purchase the Blade SR120 tail boom. The one without motor cost about $3.50 at the local hobby shop and should allow you to make 3 shafts.

Download link: Xieda 9958 Carbon Fiber Main Shaft Mod PDF Template

Anyways, happy modding and stay tune for more exciting things in store that will help you make these shafts practically foolproof.

I was asked how I solved the problem with the antenna wire on the Turnigy 9x to allow for the rear module to be removed. The easy way would to buy the original FlySky TH9x module, which comes with the antenna properly mounted on the rear module. However, if you’re handy with a soldering iron and a drill, read how I tackle the problem.

First, I de-solder the coax cable to remove the antenna. Moved it to the back and resolder. Below, you can see how I secure the antenna to allow it to pivot. It holds very securely and has a firmness when rotating. So it feels like it was built that way at the factory. You can use one screw or two. Both works great.

This is how I affixed the antenna. The upper part already has a lip to catch. I inserted the two, small screws at the bottom to secure and allow the rotation.

The spacer I used came from the top of the HP6DSM that donated the DSM2 module. I cut and then sanded down to that line for a nice reveal and final fit and finish. It allows the antenna to be protected by the transmitter handle. Insertion and removal of module is still easy. The complete rear module can now be removed.

How the mod looks from the rear. The entire module is now removable.

Here’s a three photos superimposed on each other to show the range of motion.

Showing the range of motion on the Turnigy 9x antenna mod.

Reference post: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20127812&postcount=14458

Here’s a X1TXN (AMTX10?) DSM2 module taken from a HP6DSM transmitter. It was easy to install into the Turnigy 9x running the latest er9x firmware. Just three wires, a diode and resistor. It works great!!!

Here’s some photos for your reference.

Front and back of the DSM2 module from the HP6DSM

Here’s the relevant pinout according to this post:
1 GND Module Ground
2 VDD Module power input
3 IRQ Interrupt Request
4 RST Reset, active High
5 MOSI Master out, slave In data
6 nSS Slave Select, Active Low
7 SCLK SPI data clock
8 MISO Master in, slave out data
9 GND Module Ground
10 XOUT Clock output from module
11 TXRX Switch antenna to transmit direction
12 RXTX Switch antenna to receive direction

Here’s a link to the post and schematic on how to hook things up.

Pin out of the X1TXN module. Only pins 1, 2 and 6 are used.

A sample of how you can implement a switch to be able to toggle between the internal DSM module and the module on the back. Here, the white LED glow seen through the speaker grill denote that the internal DSM2 module is ON. The white LED was so bright, I had to put a diffuser in it so that the pilot doesn’t get blinded. I cut the sticker from an MLP4DSM transmitter and used 3M 77 spray adhesive to turn it into a sticker. Gives it that extra fit and finish to complete the mod.

Some reference links:

• Installation guide: Using the MPLS4DSM module to convert your 9X to a DSM2 based transmitter
• My DSM2 posts: er9x DSM2 Mod
• Original post that got the ball rolling on er9x Google codes page: Issue 330: Add support for DSM2 (spektrum) TX boards
• Current DSM2 discussion thread on the 9x Forum: DSM2 work
• Another discussion about DSM2 on the 9x Forum: DSM for dummys?

Here’s the best and simplest method that a friend (Heli Pad of RC Groups) and I came up with to be able to remove the canopy off of Syma s107/s105 type helicopters. I am sure it can be adapted to many others.

The fit is snug and secure. There are no external sign that the helicopter has been modded. So it retains the nice, factory look of the heli.

Syma with Removable Canopy Mod, looking like a stock heli…well, as stock as one can get with a carbon tail boom and motor upgrade. ;)

We do this by securing each canopy screws using a piece of clear plastic. The same plastic that is found on the box the Syma comes in.

Showing the screw and the thin plastic used to keep the screw in place

Simply ream out a little hole and it fits nice and solid. Keeping both screw nice and tight in the canopy holes.

The canopy with the two screws, sticking out and ready to be click into the modified, mating post

The end result is the ability to get to easily get to the battery compartment so you can swap out depleted batteries and get your heli back in the air quicker. You can then do the Daryoon’s Plug-n-Play battery mod if you want a really clean look.

Heli Pad inquired about what to do with the nest of wires. Here’s an alternate look in the photo below, showcasing the wires neatly twisted together and tuck away to keep the space nice and tidy.

Showing the wire neatly tuck away

See this post for more photos of the Plug-n-Play Battery mod.

Anyways, here’s a video demonstrating the original removable canopy idea I came up with, follow by the final, simplified mod Heli Pad and I came up with.

And finally, a link to the RC Groups S107 forum discussion.

Many people like the unique head design of the Nine Eagles Solo Pro and Bravo SX. With the flybar on top, it gives it a unique, stable flight characteristic…yet maintain agility and does nice tight turns. So here’s a simple mod. Take the Solo Pro head and shaft. Drill a hole for the shaft collar and then cut about 7-8mm from the top. Drill a hole to secure the Solo Pro head. Easy peasy.

My initial impression is that it flies really well. I need to do a more thorough flight test as it’s too late to do that at the moment. I just wanted to share since this question has popped up to see if this is even possible. I’ll update this post with more of my thoughts and refinements and photo later. Until then, enjoy…