Just wanted to share my new 1S LiPo charging station. I took a 1s Micro parallel charging paraboard from Hobby King and mod it to become a serial charging board. I think this paraboard would be cheaper and easier to mod. Plus, it does not have the LED that drains the first lipo cell if you don’t remove the lipo right after charging has completed.
With this mod, I can use the balance port of the charger to individually charge each cell. I can charge from 1 cell to 6 cells.
Here’s a closer look.
Here it is, charging two 150mAh LiPo. The stick the temperature probe near the cells so the iCharger could monitor the temp and be able to shut down the charging if any cell rises to unsafe temperature.
And here’s how you configure the board if you were to charge 3 lipo cells. You simply move the positive lead to the last cell. I like it because I can charge all the various connectors normally used with 1s LiPo.
You can also charge different capacity LiPo together. But for safety, you would limit yourself to the charge rate of the lowest capacity connected lipo. Not a big deal if you have the time. Otherwise, it would be better to charge cell combination with similar capacities.
Hope that inspires you with your own mods.
Alternate color scheme…orange/white/black
See the original post here: Blade Nano CP X “Logo XXtreme” Paper Canopy
For those of you installing the Blade Nano QX flight controller onto the v929/v949/v959 frame. Here’s the latest template you can print out. Overlay against a piece of clear plastic and cut out an adapter. The white rectangles are so the motor plugs on the board can have clearance.
Click on the following button to download the PDF. When printing, ensure that you’re not resizing or fitting the image to page. Just print at default scale.
See this thread for more info: Blade nQX FC board on mQX, Ladybird & X4 size quads
We’re talking mixing and matching quads parts to build “FrakenQuads” on the RCGroups thread: Blade nQX FC board on mQX & Ladybird size quads
I know there lots of newbies looking to do this, but wasn’t sure of the relative sizes when we talk about mQX size or Ladybird size. We use those terms because the Blade mQX is the first on the market in that type and size. And the Walkera Ladybird was the first on the market in that relative size.
The nQX is thrown in there because the topic of the thread is to use the nQX flight controller (FC) on top of the mQX, Ladybird style frame. Plus, the nQX has a unique frame. In that the motor distances sits somewhere between the LadyBird and Hubsan X4 (aka Traxxas QR-1), yet the prop guards give it a visual silhouette of a slightly larger bird. Which I find helps me in orientation once it’s a good distance from me.
Anyways, hope that helps. I took the mm size distance between prop center. Then converted it to a pixel value. So the 155mm mQX becomes a 155px on the screen. :)
I needed some 250mAh 1S LiPo that will fit in the battery cage of some of the micro quad that has found it’s home in my growing fleet. On the forum, many suggest the cell BangGood listed for 5@ $12 is the best performing lipo for their micro quad. I purchased them to check them out for myself.
They just arrived and I noticed that they were labeled FullyMax 250mAh. I know from the FBL80 that HiSky do use FullyMax lipo with their label on top. So I compared it to the 250mAh 25c lipo that came with my Hobby King Qbot Micro (A HiSky FF120 rebrand).
Here are the results.
Both 1s 250mAh weighs ~7.90g.
Both lipo has the same dimensions and looks exactly the same.
My buddy had his v949 in my lab so I can put on the better performing GWS EP5443 props. Like I mentioned in my earlier blog post, these props are a performance upgrade for Blade mQX, v929, v949 type quadcopters.
I took the opportunity to paint him up a canopy in his favorite color, green.
As technology progresses and we RC hobbyist find the need to mount additional things to our transmitter, the need for adjustable mount points arises. Of course, if these transmitter manufacturer were current with the time, we would have more elegant solutions in place. Instead, follow along for a solution if you don’t like every hobbyist best friend, tape and velcro.
Check out this Walkera QR w100s quad that allows you to mount an iPhone so you can get a first person point of view, while still being able to control via your radio transmitter.
There are other tools and software such as iKopter, that allows for waypoint programming of your drone with Google Maps overlayed, all right from the phone. Then there are the popular telemetry displays that many pilots are already attaching to their TX.
For my purpose, I simply need a rear mount point that I can attach my HiSky HT-8 or Tactic Anylink module to. And be able to easily be removed, pivot and adjust as needed. Kindda like how Lego pieces snaps together.
With that thought in mind, why not use lego pieces. My little boys has a bunch of Lego Hero Factory (Bionicle) pieces all over the place. And I noticed that the pieces is perfect for what I had in mind.
It used a Dremel to cut it in half right at the line. Then I drilled a hole and stuck the ball and stem through it. epoxy it in place because I didn’t want to bother removing the case and coming up with a mount solution. Hot glue may work just as well.
Now, I can attach and switch between the AnyLink or HT-8 module easily. And the TX still fits in my existing transmitter case without having to update the layout.
It holds securely and can pivot in every which way. You can extend it with other Lego Hero Factory pieces for additional accessories addon or to make things for secure. It’s really up to your imagination at this point.
I found that Walkera made a couple of mounts available that obviously fit their radio and possibly others.
Here’s the Phone Holder A for their bigger radios: 2402D, Devo7, Devo10, Devo8s, Devo12, DevoF4 and F7, 2801PRO
And this is the Phone Holder B that fits their smaller radios: Devo 4, 6, 6s, 7E
I am going to hack another module into the Devo7e running the DeviationX firmware. This nRF24L01 module will allows me to run WLToys new protocol, HiSky and a host of others. It has the PowerAmp circuit for longest range. See this protocols spreadsheet for more info.
Keep in mind, there are two locations you can connect the CSN (yellow) point to on the Devo7e. Either to TMS or TCK. If this will be the first addon module you install into your Devo7e, then connect to the TMS location. If there’s already a module installed, then you will use the second point: TCK.
Then put your Devo 7e into USB mode, connect to computer and open up the drive. Locate hardware.ini (tx.ini on older firmware). Enable the newly installed module so that the radio recognize that the module has been installed and remove the * from the protocol selection box. (Remove the semicolon that proceeds the line to enable it.)
If you installed to the TMS location, then A13 is what you need to type in.
enable-nrf24l01 = A13
has_pa-nrf24l01 = 1
If this is your second addon module and you installed it to the TCK location, then A14 is what you need to type in.
enable-nrf24l01 = A14
has_pa-nrf24l01 = 1
Check with the DeviationX manual for more info. Hope this helps.
Someone on RCG wanted photos of the two 80-class CP heli, so I took these quick photos for reference.
In photography, the object closest to the lense generally looks larger. Despite that position, the photo of the HCP80 (aka FBL80) still shows that it’s a slightly more compact heli overall. Both are about the same height.
Not much parts are compatible or interchangeable between the two. Only the tail motor would work perfectly. 6mm x 15mm CCW. So the HCP80 tail motor would be an ideal replacement for the Blade Nano CPX.
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