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Turnigy 9x Transmitter Sticks

Just wanted to share the transmitter sticks that just arrived. At our local flynite, quite a few of us has the Turnigy 9x transmitter. Often times, it takes a double, triple check to make sure I am picking up the one that is mine. With these new sticks, it should help me identify my TX from the others. That is until my buddies read this blog post and decide to get some red ones like these.

These were $2.34 a pair from R2hobbies.com and my entire order only cost a little over $3 bucks to ship from Australia. Not bad considering I bought other things as well.

The 3mm Futaba sticks are the correct size and model for compatibility with the Turnigy 9x and it’s other variants: FlySky FS-TH9x, Eurgle, Imax, etc…

Update (2013-05-30) – Hobby King now carries compatible sticks. The ends looks less “sharp” so it may be more comfortable. Only $1.89 from here.

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Charging Clip for Nine Eagles, Trex 100 and v911

If you fly micro helis such as the Solo Pro, Trex 100 and v911. You’ll quickly find that they each employ their own proprietary battery connector. What is an easy way to be able to hook these battery up to your programmable charger?

Simple. Take a clothespin and insert two tiny screws 5mm from each other. Then wire it up like the photo below to create a charging clip.

You can make more than one and wire them up to parallel charge. It’s easy to clip on and off and works great.

Pertinent Links:
RC Groups forum post

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Waking a LiPo from Storage

If you’ve read the datasheet put out by some of the battery manufacturers, you are aware of the break-in procedure for new LiPo. Basically, this amounts to being gentler on the new LiPo for 5 cycles or so.

I call it nicely waking the new cells from slumber. Because nobody likes a rude awakening. Proper LiPo care dictates that it should not be put away for storage in a fully discharge state, nor a fully charge state. Thus new LiPo will come from the manufacturer, resting at about ~3.8v.

So the first five cycles, I generally keep the discharge current at 3C or below. With 180mAh cells, this amounts not pulling more than 0.54A during the first five cycles.

Currently, I like to use my LiPo charger to break in the new cells. That way, I can see the discharge curve. and it also helps me determine the grade A cells from the lot.

Here’s a graph and you can see the chemistry working and waking up from storage. I used the same Miniaviation cell (MA1), charged and then discharged to storage (DS1 through DS5)* at 0.5A            *I accidentally overwrote my 3rd cycle (DS3), so I don’t have have the curve for that.

You can see that the cell performed better and better with each cycle. I included the first few discharge curves for the Hyperion 160mAh to illustrate this phenomenon happening with other LiPo cells as well.

Got a good deal on the 15c Miniaviation cells. These await connectors to be soldered on.

Categories: Test
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E-Flite 150mAh 25c 1s LiPo Test

I finally got a hold of the new EFlite 150mAh 25c LiPo. I was curious about this cell because a Horizon Hobby employee said that the chemistry is better than their prior 1s cells. One person on the forum noticed that the head speed of their mSR X has a higher pitch, which suggest it was turning at a higher RPM than their Hyperion 160. That with the MSRP of $5.99 and Horizon Hobby listing it for a reasonable $3.99, it made me want to get one to put to the test. This proved to be difficult to find as it’s out of stock everywhere. The times when it came in stock at my local hobby shop, they marked it up at $9.99. This is the Hobbytown in Escondido. They also marked up the Hyperion 160mAh to $9.99 that can usually be found for $6.95 elsewhere.

New E-flite 150mAh LiPo

Anyways, finally found one at Discount Hobby Warehouse for $5.99. My curiousity got the best of me and I grab a single cell for testing. Now, bare in mind that the performance can vary from cell to cell. And I like to have at least three cells to give a better representation of it’s performance. But it’s interesting to see the result nonetheless.

It was nicely packaged. Weighs in at 4.4g. You can reduce that slightly if you remove the sticker because it wraps around the entire cell, with a little tab on one end. Anyways, make sure to click on the graph below to view it full size.

I need to grab a new order of Turnigy 160 and Turnigy Nano-Tech 160 from HobbyKing to see if those cells are really that bad or the ones I have are just worn. I also have some MiniAviation 180mAh coming from the UK. Will put that to the test once they arrive.

Categories: Helicopter, Test
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v911 Main Gear Alternatives

I was given a Xtreme Productions delrin main gear for the Solo Pro. So I took the weight differences between the v911, Solo Pro and Xtreme.

The v911 is the lightest, and very slightly thinner than the other two.

Here’s the weight of the stock v911 main shaft compared to the Solo Pro’s carbon fiber main shaft. In case you’re wondering, the Solo Pro main shaft is a drop in fit. No mods needed.

Categories: Helicopter, Solo Pro
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Xieda 9958 Heatshrink Tail Motor Holder Mod

Here’s an easy mod for those of you who fly with the tail fin removed because it requires heatshrink where the tail fin normally sits. The goal is to prevent the tail motor holder from sliding up the boom and severing your tail motor wires. Securing the tail motor holder is important on the 9958 because the tab molded into the tail motor mount isn’t very strong. On hard impact, this stopper tab will break away and the motor holder will slide up the tail boom and nick or severe the motor wires. It is one of the biggest weakness to the 9958. The resulting cut wire is obvious, but when it’s only nicked through the insulation, the bare wires can short and cause the RX to reboot or weird tail behavior during flight. It can be hard to see the nick wires.

This is one of the first things I do to my 9958. Desolder the tail motor wires so I can remove the boom. Then slip on a 3/16″ heatshrink tube in my choice of color. On one end of the heatshrink tube, I use a pair of tweezer to prestretch the heatshink tube to the max it will allow without tearing. This allows me to fit over the plastic motor mount.

Then slide the heatshrink tube as far as you can get it on and use a hair dryer on high settings to shrink the tube. You can put a tinsy amount of glue at one end of the heatshrink tube if you so desire to strengthen this mod even more. The final result is a highly decrease risk of nicking or cutting the tail motor wire while still allowing easy future repair should the boom become damage.


Heat shrink used to keep the tail motor holder in place

Categories: Xieda 9958
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v911 Battery Tray Adapter

WL Toy’s v911 is a fun micro RC helicopter. But because of it’s unique battery connection, you are limited to the factory 120mAh LiPo or recently released 130mAh LiPo. Here’s a mod that takes the battery connector part and turn it into a battery tray so that you can use the popular 1s LiPo with the Parkzone/E-Flite ultra micro connectors.

First, use a wire cutter or nail clippers to cut along the yellow line. Use a file to get everything smoothed out. It should look like the piece on the right when you are done.

Use a pair of wire cutters to cut where indicated. It should look like the piece on the right when done.

Then you can slip into the existing battery slot on the v911 skids. You will also need to solder on some ultra micro plugs.

The new adapter fits right in to form a battery tray. Solder on some ultra micro leads.

For those concern with the stock center of gravity. The fit is tight enough that you can position the battery where you like.

Here, you can see the battery position at about the stock location. Personally, I prefer the Solo Pro location. Fully forward, and into the canopy. :)

Battery seated at about the location of the stock LiPo.

You can make the battery tray more secure if you glue it to the skid. I have tested and found that ThunderPower 160, Hyperion 160, E-Flite 120 fits perfectly. I can also fit Turnigy 160 battery as well. Though I have had one where it was too thick to fit. The NanoTech 160 are definitely too thick for this mod. I recommend getting a Solo Pro skids if the battery you run are the NanoTech 160.

Categories: Helicopter
2 Comments on v911 Battery Tray Adapter

Weight Difference Between Bravo SX and v911 RX

Here’s a couple of comparision photos showing the weight difference between the Bravo SX and v911 RX. Some of you want to be able to use the v911 RX in your Nine Eagles Bravo SX and Solo Pro.

Without servo linkages.

With servo linkages.

Categories: Helicopter
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Video of 9958-BSX

Here’s a video I made of the Xieda 9958 with Bravo SX head. The Bravo SX and Solo Pro head are the same. You can use either one. See this post: http://www.hacksmods.com/2011/12/xieda-9958-with-solo-pro-head/

Categories: Helicopter, Xieda 9958
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Using Jim Stoll’s 9958 Jig for v911

I was asked the following:

Would the holes for BSX match up with holes for V911 main shaft. I plan to get this jig to make main shafts for 9958, V911, Bravo SX from 120SR tail boom.

Well, the jig does a good job of keeping your drill bit straight and true. And if you know what you’re doing, you can definitely use the 9958 jig to drill out holes for other helicopter’s main shaft.

The unique thing about the v911 is that they did a very good job of cloning the Solo Pro. I believe the Solo Pro stock main shaft is a direct bolt on. And because it’s already made of carbon fiber, buying the Solo Pro main shaft and fitting it on the v911 is probably the easiest way to go about it.

For those who like to hack and mod their stuff. Or those who can get hollow 3mm CF tubes, or even those who wants to make their main shaft out of a solid CF rod, then the following photos should help.

I took apart my Solo Pro so I can put it’s main shaft on the jig for comparison. You should be able to use the jig in two steps to fabricate a Solo Pro/v911 main shaft. As you can see, the top two holes of the Solo Pro lines up this way.

That means, from the front…line up the top of your carbon fiber tube to the BSX line. Secure with some tape.

Flip over and drill the top two holes. (Top two “ALL” position)

Once the first two holes are drilled, flip the whole thing back to the front. Remove the tape. And move the CF tube up to line up with the bottom of the word: MSR.

Again, secure with tape. Flip the jig over. Drill the hole, then cut the CF tube using the bottom of the jig as a guideline. Take extra care not to splinter you CF tube.

That’s all there is to it. It’s pretty easy once you do one.

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