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v911

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WL Toys v911 Settings for er9x

Here’s my v911 EEPE file that you can upload to your transmitter running the er9x firmware. It’s a good aid so you can learn and program your own. For instance, I tied the “dual rate” to the knobs. To allow for fine tuning of your rates.

Therefore, for full 100% rate, make sure your AUX.1 knob and AUX.2 knob is turn to the max 100% position.


AUX.1 knob controls the rates for rudder


AUX.2 knob controls the rates for elevator and aileron cyclic

The F.MODE switch at ID0 has a linear throttle curve. In the other modes, ID1 or ID2, it has a more aggressive throttle curve and a more sensitive expo settings: -20 for elevator and aileron.

Download the EEPE file by clicking on the button below. Obviously, this will only work with your Turnigy 9x, FlySky TH9x radio that has already been flashed to the er9x firmware. Use the EEPE program to write this v911 model template to your transmitter.

Categories: Downloads, v911
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v911 Battery Tray Adapter

WL Toy’s v911 is a fun micro RC helicopter. But because of it’s unique battery connection, you are limited to the factory 120mAh LiPo or recently released 130mAh LiPo. Here’s a mod that takes the battery connector part and turn it into a battery tray so that you can use the popular 1s LiPo with the Parkzone/E-Flite ultra micro connectors.

First, use a wire cutter or nail clippers to cut along the yellow line. Use a file to get everything smoothed out. It should look like the piece on the right when you are done.

Use a pair of wire cutters to cut where indicated. It should look like the piece on the right when done.

Then you can slip into the existing battery slot on the v911 skids. You will also need to solder on some ultra micro plugs.

The new adapter fits right in to form a battery tray. Solder on some ultra micro leads.

For those concern with the stock center of gravity. The fit is tight enough that you can position the battery where you like.

Here, you can see the battery position at about the stock location. Personally, I prefer the Solo Pro location. Fully forward, and into the canopy. :)

Battery seated at about the location of the stock LiPo.

You can make the battery tray more secure if you glue it to the skid. I have tested and found that ThunderPower 160, Hyperion 160, E-Flite 120 fits perfectly. I can also fit Turnigy 160 battery as well. Though I have had one where it was too thick to fit. The NanoTech 160 are definitely too thick for this mod. I recommend getting a Solo Pro skids if the battery you run are the NanoTech 160.

Categories: Helicopter
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Using Jim Stoll’s 9958 Jig for v911

I was asked the following:

Would the holes for BSX match up with holes for V911 main shaft. I plan to get this jig to make main shafts for 9958, V911, Bravo SX from 120SR tail boom.

Well, the jig does a good job of keeping your drill bit straight and true. And if you know what you’re doing, you can definitely use the 9958 jig to drill out holes for other helicopter’s main shaft.

The unique thing about the v911 is that they did a very good job of cloning the Solo Pro. I believe the Solo Pro stock main shaft is a direct bolt on. And because it’s already made of carbon fiber, buying the Solo Pro main shaft and fitting it on the v911 is probably the easiest way to go about it.

For those who like to hack and mod their stuff. Or those who can get hollow 3mm CF tubes, or even those who wants to make their main shaft out of a solid CF rod, then the following photos should help.

I took apart my Solo Pro so I can put it’s main shaft on the jig for comparison. You should be able to use the jig in two steps to fabricate a Solo Pro/v911 main shaft. As you can see, the top two holes of the Solo Pro lines up this way.

That means, from the front…line up the top of your carbon fiber tube to the BSX line. Secure with some tape.

Flip over and drill the top two holes. (Top two “ALL” position)

Once the first two holes are drilled, flip the whole thing back to the front. Remove the tape. And move the CF tube up to line up with the bottom of the word: MSR.

Again, secure with tape. Flip the jig over. Drill the hole, then cut the CF tube using the bottom of the jig as a guideline. Take extra care not to splinter you CF tube.

That’s all there is to it. It’s pretty easy once you do one.

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