Helifreak user Ian99 made available a beautifully rendition of the Mikado Logo XXtreme. His interpretation into a paper model looks great. I wanted a different color scheme and wanted to be able to use my Silhouette SD machine to cut it out for me…so I vectorized it.
Ian99 also details his tips on how to put together a good looking paper canopy. Have a look here: http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=4963926&postcount=199
I have some of my own thoughts here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1696633
Using Staples brochure paper, the prints are respectable and the weight savings is noticeable over the photo paper version. Finish canopy comes in at 1.55g. About the weight of the stock Nano CPX canopy. :)
Lately, there’s been a number of threads created where Nano CP X owners who have installed a brushless motor on their heli, have learn that upgrading to a thicker gauge wire improved performance noticeably. There is a noticeable increase in pop acceleration and less to no bogging.
I wonder how much of it is due to the thicker gauge wire or if the improvement comes from the thicker wire being more tolerant of a sloppy solder joint?
I went ahead and took a photo of the recommended wire gauge side-by-side in case you are curious.
I always like using servo wires. Copper is a good conductor and the servo wires are usually made of copper. The only thing is, it’s insulating sleeve isn’t as heat tolerant as the silicone wires. Another property that I like with the silicone wires is that it’s really flexible.
Here’s some weight difference between 24ga silicone wires versus what I think are 24ga servo wires. The stock Nano CP X leads of the same length was added to compare the weight. Every gram counts when modding the Nano CP X for performance.
I think the most important thing is having a good solder joint. To ensure there’s no impurities in your solder joint, you have to use flux. A hot iron and flux will make a solder joint solid and keep the resistance low.
Make sure to properly insulate the solder connection. And I like to stretch a piece of shrink tubing so it fits over the connector. This ensure you don’t fatigue the soldered joint.
If you’ve flown Blade helis, you would know that they often use 2mm round CF tubes for their tail boom. To keep the tail rotor aligned to the main shaft, each end of the boom is keyed. In the shape of a D.
The tail boom is one I often fracture or break. Horizon Hobby does not sell replacement CF booms by itself. One has to buy the entire tail assembly for about $15. Many of us hobbyist simply purchase 1 meter CF tubes or rod, and cut to length. This is much more economical and keeps more money in our pocket.
Since learning to fly 3D with the Nano CP X, I have fractured more booms than I care to share. And I am sick of needing to carefully file the D shape, making sure not to remove too much material from each side. On top of that, one have to ensure that the flat part is on the same plane on each end of the fabricated tail boom to ensure the tail rotor lines up with the main shaft. It was a nightly ritual that I am done with.
I know some people have solve the issue of broken tail boom by using a 2mm round solid rod. Then they wrap the tail wires on the outside. I personally don’t like the wires wrapped on the outside. During crashes, the enamel coating can be rubbed off and the resulting short will burn out your tail FET. Using solutions like CAT5 wiring just seems to be heavy and clunky on the Nano.
Personally, I wished the Nano CP X uses the 2mm square boom that the v911 uses. It has more meat to it and there is no need to make the key at each ends of the boom to keep the boom from getting out of plum with the main shaft. Plus, it’s easy to purchase replacement boom for the v911 heli on the cheap that is already in a good length. In fact, when the v911 first came out, I purchase a bunch at $0.50 each but have not fractured the tail boom of the v911 yet. It’s the only heli I own that I can say that about.
Noticing that the Turnigy FBL100 and HiSky FBL100 heli both uses 2mm square boom, I purchased a spare FBL100 frame. Cut the rear portion and epoxied it onto the Nano CP X frame. It was actually very easy to do and line up since the flat surface mates to each other securely with epoxy.
Here’s some photo of the result. I am so happy I can simply put in a new tail boom or fabricate one by cutting to length.
Previously, I posted on using v911 and Solo Pro canopies as alternatives to the pricey Blade Nano CP X ones Horizon Hobby sells for $13/piece. On HeliFreak, some Nano CP X owners experimented with Walkera canopies and found that they can be fitted on the Nano CP X with little modifications. One good thing about the Walkera canopy is they are the same weight as the stock canopy, once trimmed to fit the Nano CP X. Plus, it has the added advantage of being molded out of one piece of plastic and is very durable. See the video below for proof. And they are about half the cost of the stock Nano CP X canopies, with a few different colors to choose from.
I found that the following Walkera canopies are the same shape, with just difference in color and decals.
Isn’t it hard to decide on which canopy to order when it’s often hard to get a clear, large photo of the canopies? HacksMods to the rescue…
Here are the Walkera models and the primary canopy colors…
First off, we got the Genius CP, in a very easy to see Orange-Yellow paint scheme:
Next, we got the Mini CP in it’s metallic red/burgundy scheme. Looks nice and has a white under belly:
If you want something blue, kindda along the lines of the alternative Nano CP X canopy that Horizon Hobby has available for the Nano, here is The Walkera Super FP option:
Finally, for those who wants a bright green…you can purchase the Genius FP canopy:
And for those of you who dislike the Walkera branding, you can do what I did. I scrape off the decals with my fingernail. But later found that I can lift it in one piece with an xacto knife. Any sticky glue residue, you can use CA accelerator to remove. (You did know that CA accelerator does a good job of removing sticky adhesive residue right?)
Let me know what you guys think in the comment section.
Update: After using the canopy for longer. They aren’t as durable as the video below makes them out to be. I get cracks where it impacts the battery cage on my Nano. And the cracks gets longer if you don’t tape it. It’s still more durable than my stock Nano canopy. However, it’s not as indestructible as I had hope.
The v911 canopy on the other hand, is thus far indestructible. And I’ve put it through much more crashes than these Walkera ones. :)
Here’s the YouTube video someone made, attesting to the durability of these canopies.
I find that it’s easy to break the canopy mount on the Blade Nano CP X. So, I think reinforcing them is a wise preventative measure. I know some people like to use a carbon rod and spiral wrap thread around nice and tightly. Then wet the thread with CA glue. I find this method is effective, but the CA and thread mixture looks rough.
Here’s a similar idea, executed a different way.
I have a bunch of split hollow, square carbon tail boom used on the v911, 9958, Solo Pro and other FP Heli. I like using these broken pieces to splint broken parts to add strength to the repair.
Here, a square hollow boom split down the middle, has a nice groove. 29.74mm is a perfect length. Take your micro round file and a couple of passes in the middle create a nice recessed point for the RX mount.
Fits perfectly. Some CA glue to fill the filet between the carbon and canopy post will strengthen the entire assembly with negligible weight gain.
I like to slip on a shrink tube to make the entire mod look finished.
Here’s a look at the front canopy mounts. One continuous reinforced mount. You can feel it’s much more sturdy.
Similar concept should be done to the two rear canopy post to reinforce those too.
This mod is a good preventative measure. However, it’s also good for those of you, like me, who already broke their canopy post. Simply gluing the broken post back together usually doesn’t work too well without lots of epoxy. The best method is to glue and reinforce with carbon like shown in this mod. The broken piece will fare much better than just glue alone.
What an exciting day for micro R/C hobbyist. Hobby King just introduced a new module that is compatible with Spektrum DSMX and DSM2 technology for your Turnigy 9x and other radio that accepts JR style module.
Do you need a new canopy for your new Nano CP X without having to pay the $12.49 Horizon Hobby charges for a replacement? Well, you’re in luck because the Solo Pro and V911 canopies fit perfectly on the Blade nCPX. You can find these replacement canopies for as low $0.99 at oversea retailer. Or check eBay for dealers in the states.
The top mounting position fits perfectly. Then you can leave at is and punch a new hole for the lower mount, or trim the lines for a custom look.
This mods pros and cons list:
Pros:
The v911’s canopy is much, much, much more durable over the stock nCPX. Weighs ~2.25g. The Solo Pro canopy weighs ~1.85g. (Depending on how you trim.)
very affordable. MyRCMart carries them from $0.99. Or order from Banggood.com
alternate look, lines to your nCPX.
Easy, simple mod!
No leftover holes that says, look…I re-purposed a canopy from another model.
Paint scheme and words removable with nail polish remover so you can repaint as you like.
Bonus: A good way to hide your new purchase from the significant other. Disguised as a cheap $20 chinese FP heli.
Cons:
Heavier than stock (1.58g)
No Blade/nano CPX branding on the heli.
Here’s a red v911 canopy as it is.
Very easy, moderate trimming and you can reshape the canopy to your liking. Here’s one variation. I didn’t punch the hole yet. You can angle the canopy up or down before you punch that second hole. It fits over the battery tray perfectly, and you can still insert the battery all the way forward.
An alternate view.
Here’s what it looks like with yellow Nine Eagles Solo Pro styling. It’s very vibrant and actually matches the nCPX yellow tail better than the nCPX’ own canopy does.
The Solo Pro’s canopy material is similar to the nCPX’ stock canopy. The v911 canopy however, is a very durable plastic. That’s the one to get for durability. Or get them all. It’s cheap!!!
Here’s the Solo Pro in blue. Also known as the Soars in some parts of the world.
The blue v911 canopy looks like this:
The v911 also comes in it’s default Black and Orange pattern that reminds me of Trex RC helicopters.
There’s also the yellow and white version of the clone v911 heli, which doesn’t have the intake scoop at the top.
Anyways, hope those are good leads to finding cheap canopies that fits your new Blade Nano CP X. They take a much better beating than the stock nCPX canopy. Important if you’re going to be doing 3D. :)
Additional Resources:
Link to discussion thread on HeliFreak.
Some people are still waiting on their package to arrive. What better way to past the time than to look at some heli porn? Uploading some clean shots of the new Blade Nano CP X for your viewing pleasure.
