I need more lipo and wanted to try something lighter weight to see how the HCP100S will do. The Hobby King Nano-Tech 330mAh made for the Trex 150 touts 45-90c. Let’s see how it matches up to the HiSky HCP100S stock 450mAh 25c pack.
I have two of the HiSky 450mAh and three of the Nano-Tech 330mAh.
Click to view the larger graph…
I was only able to pull 2A from my iCharger 106B+. And I estimated that the HCP100S pulls about 2.8A or so. But the graph above gives us a good basis for comparision.
The NanoTech claims 40-90C. And it does gives an ok discharge the first minute or so. The HiSky 25c does keep the voltage up longer.
I get about 6mins with the 330mAh pack. And about roughly 8mins with the HiSky 450mAh.
The HiSky’s ability to maintain a higher voltage through the flight makes up for the fact that it’s a heavier pack. My skill level doesn’t allow me to feel the weight on the HCP100S. The brushless motor sill makes it super power and peppy to me. And the weight makes it feel more stable in the breeze.
But the Nano-Tech are about half the cost, factoring HobbyKing shipping. And 5-6mins is a good amount of time for flying. You just need to install a balance plug to use the Trex 150 compatible lipo.
Just thought I’d share.
At CES 2015, Hubsan had a good presence and brought out their new line up. Many of us are familiar with the original Hubsan X4 and it’s rebrands such as the Traxxas QR-1…as well as the many, many clones that tries to mimic the form and function of the first Hubsan X4. That does say something about Hubsan’s design and engineering prowess.
First up, the regular Hubsan X4 with LED gets an update. The H107L is now known as the H107P aka Hubsan X4 Plus.
Next up, the Hubsan X4 (H107C) with camera is now known as the H107C+, aka Hubsan X4 Camera Plus. The camera records at 720P and the quad itself gets an altitude mode. This should allow for smooth flights, making it easier to maintain the same altitude level without too much throttle management. Smooth flights at the same altitude level regardless of speed or entering and exit turns are signs of a proficient pilot.
Here’s a photo of the bottom. You can see where the micro SD card resides. You can also see that Hubsan uses more screws to secure that part of the X4 that used to pop apart during crashes. These new micro quads do feel very solid in the hand.
Then there’s the Hubsan X4 (H107D) FPV. It gets the plus designation and now known as the H107D+, aka Hubsan X4 FPV Plus. From the product manual, it appears they are still keeping the old H107D in the lineup with the H107D+. The H107D+ maintain the same 720P recording resolution. It’s unknown if the quality is better or not. It also get the altitude mode upgrade. This is definitely a welcome feature for FPV beginners.
And a couple of images from the CES show…
Finally, the new additions to the X4 family. Both are much bigger than the size of the X4.
The H109 aka Hubsan X4 Brushless, is a quad that was leaked a year ago and many have been awaiting with bated breath. It’s Hubsan’s first brushless quad. The size reminds me more of a Blade 200QX. And it keeps the Hubsan styling, with lights on each of the motor pods. Along with the X4 Brushless, Hubsan introduced a new, larger transmitter to help tame that brushless power. Hopefully, the protocols are backwards compatible and will allow flying the smaller X4. Many of us Devo 7e users know that a X4 flies soooo much better with a good TX.
Besides the design aesthetices, the brushless power plant obviously makes the H109 attractive. What really get me interested though is the claim of a 20min flight time.
And finally, topping up the line up is the Hubsan’s DJI Phantom Vision+ competitor. The H109S, aka Hubsan X4 Pro. It touts a 1080P HD camera, GPS and automatic return to home. Even has a parachute in case something goes very wrong up in the air. The video at the bottom that Hubsan was running at their CES booth will give more highlights of the feature the H109S has.
It definitely looks like a badass and FPV ready. 3axis gyro stablization gimbal. And an Android power TX to control to round out the package. Very pro looking.
And I also saw a Hubsan FPV goggle on display. However, I don’t see it mentioned in their brochure. So I would be curious as to how they compare to Fatshark or SkyZone goggles.
Pivotal moment for those of us who loves the opensource BLHeli brushless firmware from Steffen. HiSky’s new HCP100S double brushless micro CP helicopter comes with BLHeli firmware already flashed onboard. Not only that, the programming pads are big and accessible.
BLHeli toolstick connection points…
Main ESC was flashed with BLHeli 12.1. Governor modes are disabled. But Programming by TX is left enabled. Therefore, you should be able to use your transmitter sticks to enable/disable some of the features. Read the BLHeli manual under section for Beeps – Entering programming mode. The manual can be founded in the /manual folder after you download and unzip the BLHeli Suite software
(Another good read… DoubleCH explaination of governor modes)
Tail ESC was flashed with BLHeli version 10.4
And for you HCP100, v922, FBL100 and even mCPX owners. Here’s how it can look like if you repurpose the HCP100S dual brushless ESC for your heli…
I purchase some nicely priced SunnySky x2204s 2300kv from BangGood for < $16.
Here’s a photo comparison against the x2204s purchased from SunnySky’s official US distributor: BuddyRC.com
I see that the one from BuddyRC uses thicker motor wires. And are generally neater wound versus the one from BangGood. The BangGood one has a thicker bell cross section, so you can’t see the magnets like you could with the original from BuddyRC. It also seem to use more glue to keep the magnets in place. I am not sure if this is in response to reports of magnets coming loose…especially those who are running these motors on 4s lipo.
The BuddyRC motor has a slight sheen to it. With crisp lines and a reflective, copper/light gold logo. While the BangGood motor has the SunnySky logo in a matte white, with a slightly different font. The motor bell is painted a more matte black. And the line noted in the picture below wasn’t as refine.
I also noticed that the BangGood motor has a shorter threaded motor shaft. This is interesting because SunnySky x2204s motors are known to already have a slightly shorter shaft than comparable motors. i.e. Cobra 2204.
At the bottom of the motors, the BangGood version has very obvious concentric rings.
Another obvious change between the motors is the use of a metal washer in the BangGood motor. Compared to the plastic one.
Another top view of the motor windings, looking into the stator/magnets.
And the same thing from the bottom of the motor.
At this point, I do not know if the SunnySky x2204s motors from BangGood is a knock off or just the latest production run. The only way to tell is getting official word from a SunnySky representative. Or grabbing the latest copy from their official US distributor: BuddyRC
In either case…my own opinion is the older SunnySky has a more premium look to them than the one from BangGood. On that merit alone, I would consider some of the other competing 2204 2300kv motors at the moment.
I will be putting these BangGood motors on Fyathyrio’s test stand to see how they compare. So stay tune for that.
For those who attempted the Devo 7e range mod and did not succeed. You can purchase one of the upgrade module made for the Devo 8 and 12 to get your Devo 7e up and running again. With full range. :)
Here’s a picture of it installed. I removed the original and installed it in it’s place.
For those who needs a visual guide on how to wire up the WK-DEVO-S-MOD Upgrade Module…
I just added a swivel antenna to the Devo 7e’s stock antenna tube. I cut and tapered the stock tube. Then used a coax to extend the connector, so I can mount at the new location.
The ability to adjust the position of the antenna will optimize the RF radiation pattern. Ensuring you have a good signal to your model.
Here is a good, beginner’s video on the topic of Antenna:
Combine this with the Devo 7e range mod. Or you can buy and install the Walkera Devo S upgrade module to turn the Devo 7e into a full range radio transmitter. This is the same module you would need in case you attempted the range mod and failed.
I used two additional items that is pretty inexpensive and can be purchased from BangGood as well.
A 15cm U.FL/IPX to RP-SMA extension ~$1.50
And the standard 2.4GHz RP-SMA antenna ~$3
Check out the AlienWii FC from Lance.
They run MultiWii and has MOSFET that can handle direct driving 8.5mm brushed motors without blowing up.
Here’s a shot with the LemonRX Satellite receiver installed. Plug and play.
You can get them and the awesome Chaoli motors from Micro Motor Warehouse.
Just gonna share photos of the acro quad I am building. Thanks to Soma for coming up with the WarpQuad. Looks the best out of all the acrobatic quads out there.
Here’s the center frames. It sandwiches the 4mm carbon fiber legs.
I switched out some of the hardware. Such as the aluminum washer below. And used power cables that comes attached together. For a neater run of the brushless motor wires to the center of the WarpQuad.
Another change from the standard build out. I added 1.72mm washers so I can run the 22guage motor wire underneath the top plate.
Then I modified the XT60 lipo connector so that it can be sandwiched between the frames. Filed down the connector so it can conform to the curve of the top plate.
You can see where the power distribution harness will solder to and subsequently run to each of the ESC.
Those were the early photos. These upcoming photos are where the WarpQuad build out is at now. It took forever to source red aluminum washers with the same bevel as the blue ones I had on hand. Still not perfect but very close. The aluminum TeeNut that the frame is resting on is just to temporary hold the arms in place. And make it easy to disassemble without tools. This frees up my hand to ensure the cable runs are neat and nothing is pinched.
I switch to button head screws. Red aluminum 5mm. The hex size will take the same allen wrench to be consistent with the rest of the screw head used on this quad. The four button head should be strong enough to secure the motor.
Here is a closer shot of the red washers and where I intend on placing the ESC. In the center of the quad instead of on the arms like the reference build out by Soma.
A look at the cable run and how it meets up with the brushless motor. I created a stagger cut because I didn’t want to seperate the wires to fit heatshrinks. The stagger will keep the wires from shorting. As extra precaution, I applied Liquid Electrical tape to insulate. Then follow by a larger heatshrink to cover up the area. To dress up the heatshrink…I used chrome tape and nail art tape. This brings some blink down to this end of the arms.
Additionally, I hope the chrome take will help reflect some of the LED lights up to the props once I place one there.
Here is a look at the stagger cut I mentioned before. Some folks have asked why I choose to use four motor wires when brushless motors only require three. The simple answer is for symmetry once it gets to the center of the frame and have to go to the left and right of the screw.
The quad is ready for the ESC to be soldered on. Easy to do. However, I need to figure out how I want to route the power wires and still have room to fit the Flight Controller between the frame. There’s really no room for both. :)
added August 13, 2014: Check out the complete rev1 build here… http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2176239#post28508149
Lovely spring weather means I am antsy to build and fly again. I am planning on using this Hobby King HKing 10a brushless ESC in a 230mm size acro quad. Not sure if it will be able to endure SunnySky 2204 2300kv with 3s lipo but I like the physical size…so I will give it a try anyways.
Anyways, the dimensions on Hobby King is incorrect (23mm x 18mm). Here are the actual values as measured with the digital caliper. The bare ESC as pictured weighs 2.59g.
It arrived with 20guage silicone wires for the main power. And 22gauge silicone wires for the motor leads.
Missing from the photo is the electrolytic capacitor (100uf 16v). I took it off so I can use a tantalum SMD capacitor with the same values. It’s much smaller physically. Hopefully it works out. :)
What I like about this ESC is the fact that it’s BLHeli compatible. Plus, it uses all N-channel MOSFET. And it was reasonably inexpensive at $5.78. Here’s an inexpensive BLHeli programmer, and another another. You will need one of these for flashing the firmware or updating the parameters of the ESC using the BLHeli Suite software. Unless you already have an official SilLabs Toolstick. Then you can follow this guide for modding it for the same function.
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