Helifreak user Ian99 made available a beautifully rendition of the Mikado Logo XXtreme. His interpretation into a paper model looks great. I wanted a different color scheme and wanted to be able to use my Silhouette SD machine to cut it out for me…so I vectorized it.
Here’s the first draft of the red/white version.
Ian99 also details his tips on how to put together a good looking paper canopy. Have a look here: http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=4963926&postcount=199
I have some of my own thoughts here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1696633
Using Staples brochure paper, the prints are respectable and the weight savings is noticeable over the photo paper version. Finish canopy comes in at 1.55g. About the weight of the stock Nano CPX canopy. :)
To help those of you hacking the FF120/mQBot Micro flight controller, here are some photos.
The Devo7e is a good compact transmitter. And with the DeviationX firmware, it is the one transmitter you can take with you and fly many protocol. The one limitation is that it was design for short range flying. Of course the gurus hacking on the Devo7e found that by removing a single diode, you can increase the power output by 10x.
All it takes is to remove the metal shield to access the diode for removal.
I start by putting on eye protection and adding some additional solder. This will help the solder blob stay heated and you move your solder iron back and forth between two points. Use a hobby knife or tweezer to lift one side of the shield. Then simply repeat for the second pair of solder joints and the shield will come off quite easily.
After the diode is removed, bridge the two points. Just solder would work. However, I used a small wire to help the solder flow and bridge the two points.
Some have said you can simply leave the diode in place and just short the whole diode with solder to accomplish the same thing.
Once done bridging the two points, it’s important to put back on the RF shield. I clean up any solder so the shield can sit flat. Then it’s just a matter of adding solder reflow so everything is put back and looking the way it did before you removed the shield.
Lastly, make sure you edit your tx.ini file and enable the additional power.
has_pa-cyrf6936 = 1
Here’s a thread discussing the mod with some graphs of the increase in power output.
Yes! Just received my Walkera Devo 7e from BangGood. I was surprise to see it arrive in only 14 days all the way from China. I have been wanting to try DeviationX out for a long time. With the release of DeviationX 3.0 and support for WLtoys v929, v949 and v959 triggerable accessories, not to mention the Hubsan X4 support and SkyArtec support, the Devo 7e had to be a part of my collection.
The size of the Devo 7e makes it very portable. And it feels very solid in the hand. The areas where your palm and finger grip are greeted with rubber. So it’s nice. The sticks are made of aluminum instead of plastic like I thought it would be. And inside, I see ball bearings on the gimbal. A nice surprise.
Anyways, one of the first thing I did was look up tutorial on how to add the FlySky A7105 module to the Devo 7e. After the successfully mod, I put together the following images to help anybody looking to do the same.
I took the v922 out for a hike and photoshoot the other day. Of course, the morning I have time to have this little adventure and bonding time with the little heli, mother nature decided to drizzle and overcast the skies thwart my use of the typically beautiful morning sunlight. And the wind didn’t help me try and capture a flyby, manning both camera and TX. LOL
Anyways, was gonna throw these images away. However, grabbed some to demonstrate to Heli Pad how the Pelican or “Pelicanopy” as he dubs it actually grows on you. And how from certain angle, it isn’t as ugly as first thought.
I told him perhaps it’s because the v922 is now part of my growing family. Thus I have to look past it and see the inner beauty, just like a parent would (must) do so with their own loving child. Apt analogy? LOL
Just got delivery of the WLtoys v922. It’s a Blade mCPX style CP heli and it flies well. Giving it a once over, it’s well made and the PCB and servos are better manufacture than the Blade mCPX. Shiny solder joints with just the right amount of solder.
I like that the status LED is right in the middle. On some of the Blade heli, the off centered LED made the glow underneath the canopy off centered.
Lately, there’s been a number of threads created where Nano CP X owners who have installed a brushless motor on their heli, have learn that upgrading to a thicker gauge wire improved performance noticeably. There is a noticeable increase in pop acceleration and less to no bogging.
I wonder how much of it is due to the thicker gauge wire or if the improvement comes from the thicker wire being more tolerant of a sloppy solder joint?
I went ahead and took a photo of the recommended wire gauge side-by-side in case you are curious.
I always like using servo wires. Copper is a good conductor and the servo wires are usually made of copper. The only thing is, it’s insulating sleeve isn’t as heat tolerant as the silicone wires. Another property that I like with the silicone wires is that it’s really flexible.
Here’s some weight difference between 24ga silicone wires versus what I think are 24ga servo wires. The stock Nano CP X leads of the same length was added to compare the weight. Every gram counts when modding the Nano CP X for performance.
I think the most important thing is having a good solder joint. To ensure there’s no impurities in your solder joint, you have to use flux. A hot iron and flux will make a solder joint solid and keep the resistance low.
Make sure to properly insulate the solder connection. And I like to stretch a piece of shrink tubing so it fits over the connector. This ensure you don’t fatigue the soldered joint.
Recent discussion on this topic:
BL Nano- Bog to HOT DOG by 737 Driver
Guys, no joke… mild bl conversions “must” have battery leads soldered to esc!!! by mixfisto
Proof that direct soldering battery connector to ESC makes a difference by P@reez (Has some sample videos of before and after)
Having trouble soldering heavier gauge wires to the ESC? by Dylwad
I received my v939 flight controller aka RX board. And I had to look up the motor direction to ensure I installed the board properly.
For those using this FlySky compatible flight controller, here’s an image of the board with the motor direction annotated as well as where the motor should be plugged into.
I want to share the landing skids I design and cut out by hand using a dremel. Guess where I got the inspiration. ;)
I had some leftover .8mm CF I used for the mSRX brushless mount so I cut my first one out of that. I need to find some thinner, probably .5 or .6mm CF and it’ll be perfect.
It’s mounted to a MicroHeli mSR lipo cage.
The upper horizontal brace is designed to help stiffen the stock Nano frame, as well as obscure the main gear to give the look of a 450+ class heli. It’s also angled to give nicer line once the fuselage is on. Together, it’s almost like it’s ready to pounce into the air. LOL The lower proportion and curves are very similar to the heli that was the source of inspiration.
I will install it on my Nano with the Wild brushless Nano CP X. So plenty of raw power. Muahahahaha
What do you guys think?